DrySerum Technology

The unique NEUNEX nanoencapsulation technology for high flexibility in cosmetic formulations

The NEUNEX technology follows up on research work by Matej Buzgo (Head of R&D, RESPILON). The systems for high throughput production of core/shell fibers were described in his work for coaxial spinning¹, emulsion spinning² and emulsion centrifugal spinning.³ RESPILON – a premium nanofiber provider since 2013 – made its long-standing know-how available to be combined with the knowledge described above, which gave rise to NUENEX – a novel nanoencapsulation technology. The combination of special polymer dosing elements, electrodes, and the overall system design resulted in the development of a technology enabling encapsulation of any active molecules into nanofibers and the finetuning of their release. The key advantage of emulsion spinning over blend spinning (used by most state-of-the-art systems) is the possibility to encapsulate active molecules in different phases (i.e., hydrophilic/hydrophobic) into a single fiber. This results in a higher formulation flexibility demonstrated in DrySerum membranes as cosmetic material enabling the encapsulation of water-based, oil-based, liposomal and nanoparticle-based active molecules into a single fiber. The active molecules are embedded inside the fibers, the system reduces phase separation and leads to better protection of the active molecules. What is more, the needleless system exceeds the production capacity of needle-based methods and enables economic production of materials with lower effort, higher energy efficacy and higher homogeneity.

Multifunctional cosmetic membranes

Active DrySerum membranes can be created with almost unlimited sets of active molecules. These molecules can be combined to reach multi-functional and synergically acting cosmetic products. Skin health is associated with complex processes. For instance, even healthy skin requires the management of epidermal hydration and tightness to enable proper skin barrier properties. With exposure to sunlight and polluted air the skin’s antioxidant and antipollution function is required to prevent radical induced skin damage. On the top of it, an anti-ageing and rejuvenation effect is necessary for healthy skin aging. Thanks to its ultimate loading capacity, DrySerum enables a combination of all required active cosmetic ingredients, which can manage skin health in a single step. Help your users simplify their routine with the DrySerum technology!

DrySerum is ideal for sensitive active cosmetic ingredients

As for active ingredients, progress in the cosmetic field brings in novel highly functional molecules and plant extracts. With the growing importance of antioxidants, lipid-based molecules, nucleic acids, proteins and enzymes, standard formulations are often associated with problems with stability. Thanks to nanoencapsulation, DrySerum is an ideal solution for the delivery of sensitive cosmetic actives. 

For instance, proteins and enzymes are sensitive and therefore highly susceptible to physical or chemical denaturation. Their function is dependent on proper tertiary and quaternary conformation unique to each protein or peptide, which is formed by thermodynamically regulated processes during their synthesis or post-translational modification. If their structure is lost, their bioactivity is significantly decreased, in most cases permanently. Denaturation occurs due to numerous factors including elevated temperature, chemical environment (i.e., denaturating solvents, surfactants, or salts), physical stress due to shear or UV irradiation, chemical modification due to oxidation or enzymatic degradation due to proteases. The DrySerum technology prevents the denaturation of proteins thanks to rapid and non-thermal process of their immobilization into a dry polymeric matrix with optimized chemical composition (peptides/hydrophilic polymers), which prevents the molecules from mechanical, chemical and environmental damage even after long-term storage at room temperature.

DrySerum is compatible with soft-nanostructured delivery systems (liposomes, lipid particles)

Soft-nanostructured delivery systems are gaining popularity in the cosmetic field. Thanks to optimized surface chemistry, nanostructured systems enable deep penetration of even high-molecular weight molecules without the use of invasive methods. Liposomes, polymerosomes, micelles, nanogels, polymeric particles or exosomes are used to deliver plant-based growth factors, melatonin, hyaluronic acid and vitamins to deep skin layers. However, long-term stability of such systems in water and oil-based cosmetic formulations is problematic. The nanosystems aggregate, degrade or release their cargo prematurely. This might result in a shorter shelf-life and a lower activity of formulations. DrySerum enables the encapsulation of nanosystems and the prevention of their unwanted degradation during storage. After the dissolution of DrySerum on the skin, they are released on the skin’s surface. DrySerum typically enables the loading of soft-nanostructured delivery systems, which typically make up 20% of final fibers.

DrySerum contains an extremely high concentration of active molecules  

The key advantage of the DrySerum technology is its possibility to form cosmetic formulations with active molecule content reaching 100%. Standard cosmetic formulations such as hydrogel masks, creams, and serums are composed mostly of water, excipient molecules, and active molecules. Water typically makes up around 70% of the volume and active molecules make up only 2-15% of the product. This is much lower content of active molecules compared to the DrySerum technology. The excess of surfactants and emollients is used for skin conditioning. Ionic surfactants and a number of synthetic surfactants are disrupt the natural barrier function of skin.^4,5  On the other hand, mild surfactants were not shown to cause significant skin barrier degradation.6 Due to its electrospinning technology and rapid solidification, DrySerum does not need to use excessive amounts of surfactants and provides a mild delivery of active molecules to the skin’s surface. Due to the water contained in standard cosmetic formulations, the use of preservatives preventing microbial contamination is necessary for long-term storage. The crucial advantage of the DrySerum technology is that it enables the formation of dry cosmetic formulations. Waterless formulations do not require the addition of preservatives.

High concentration of active molecules and penetration enhancement

DrySerum’s key advantage is its ability to enhance molecular bioavailability. Thanks to its highly dry form, chemical composition, and high loading capacity, upon application to the skin DrySerum rapidly releases high amount of active cosmetic molecules. They form a highly concentrated solution on the skin’s surface. Penetration of the molecules through the skin barrier is increased by their concentration.^7,8 In addition, DrySerum is typically based on components with low molecular weight (i.e., collagen peptides, hyaluronic acid, hydrolysed vegetal proteins) in high concentration (~ 40%). These molecules were shown to penetrate into stratum corneum (the upper layer of the epidermis) resulting in rapid hydration of the skin’s surface layer. Thanks to the brick-and-mortar structure of this skin layer, the small molecular weight peptides result in temporary decrease of surface tension and hydrophobic bonding disruption.⁹ Hydration of the skin’s surface increases the penetration of active cosmetic ingredients through the skin barrier.¹⁰ In addition, the high-molecular-weight polymeric component (typically pullulan) forms a tightening and evaporation-limiting layer on the skin surface. Pullulan’s polymeric chains bind tightly to the skin’s surface.¹¹ DrySerum’s active molecules can therefore efficiently reach deeper layers of the skin and perform their biological function either in stratum granulosum (stimulation of keratinocytes) or the dermis (regulation of fibroblasts).  

Alternatively, DrySerum could be combined with additional ways of penetration enhancement including chemical penetration enhancers (i.e., fatty acid esters, terpene esters, fatty acids, Transcutol) or nanostructured carriers (i.e., liposomes, SLPs, polymerosomes, soft-polymeric particles, denrimers). The addition of such penetration enhancers will act synergically with the parameters described above. However, the risks and benefits of penetration enhancer use on long-term skin health needs to be considered.¹²

DrySerum comes in the shape of cosmetic masks and patches 

DrySerum is primarily available in the form of sheets. The sheets produced by the NEUNEX technology have maximal width of 80 cm (31 in). The membrane could be cut into the shape of segmented sheet masks or patches using die cutting technology. Thanks to membrane format, DrySerum is applied homogenously to the skin’s surface. The homogenous application is important for optimal absorption to skin without the need of excessive rubbing. In addition, the format enables the covering of skin parts of interest without the loss on hands during application to the skin’s surface.

¹ Vyslouzilova L. et al., Needleless coaxial electrospinning: A novel approach to mass production of coaxial nanofibers, 2017, DOI: 10.1016/j.ijpharm.2016.11.034

² Buzgo M. et al.: Needleless emulsion electrospinning for the regulated delivery of susceptible proteins, 2017, DOI: 10.1002/term.2474 

³ Buzgo M. et al: Emulsion centrifugal spinning for production of 3D drug releasing nanofibers with core/shell structure, 2017, DOI: 10.1039/C6RA26606A 

⁴ Lemery E. et al.: Surfactants have multi-fold effects on skin barrier function. 2015. DOI: 10.1684/ejd.2015.2587 

⁵ Lu G. et al.: Study of surfactant-skin interactions by skin impedance measurements. 2011. DOI: 10.111/j.1468-2494

⁶ Wlaters R.M. et al.: Cleansing Formulations That Respect Skin Barrier Integrity  

⁷ Mustapha R. et al.: Influence of drug concentration on the diffusion parameters of caffeine. 2011. DOI: 10.4103/0253-7613.77351 

⁸ Ruela A.L. et al.: Evaluation of skin absorption of drugs from topical and transdermal formulations. 2016. DOI: 10.1590/S1984-82592916000300018 

⁹ Aguirre-Criz G. et al: Collagen Hydrolysates for Skin Protection. 2020. DOI: 10.3390/antiox9020181 

¹⁰ Purdon C. et al., Penetration Enhancement by Skin Hydration. 2005. DOI: 10.1201/9781420039207 

¹¹ Coltelli M.B. et al: Pullulan for Advanced Sustainable Body and Skin Contact Applications. 2020. DOI: 10.3390/jfb11010020. 

¹² Herman A. et al.: Essential oilds and their constituents as skin penetration enhancers. 2014. DOI: 10.1111/jphp.12334